Peculiarities

Asia sure has odd notions about western food. I haven’t forgotten the peculiar references to toast I encountered in China— rooted, from all appearances, in some bizarre toast mythos completely unknown in America. All Thai dishes at SR Bungalow have been perfectly satisfactory, if not better, yet this morning confronted me with porridge: porridge in boiling-hot condensed milk. Then, in the evening, the misguided cook ruined his “local seafood spaghetti” with spaghetti-O sauce. It must be said that our “Asian” food is just as far off the mark, but seriously, spagetti-O sauce? From now on it’s Thai food till I hit the west.'

Those spaghetti-O’s left me more queasy than satisfied. So, off I went, looming thunderheads notwithstanding, to secure some milk (milk is pleasantly commonplace in Thailand) snacks, and soap. I also purchased a flimsy umbrella, for the skies burst during the shopping, and a little adapter for my computer. Smaller shops in Thailand, as in China, carry a most convenient array of merchandise. This one sported candy, junk food, cigarettes, all manners of alcohol, a full spectrum of hygiene products (diapers included), power-bars (not the food), other electrical odds and ends, microwave burgers, some deli meats, ponchos, and umbrellas, not to mention items I failed to notice or remember. The lower-48 may stock similar stuff, I haven’t spent much time in their gas stations, so I can’t say, but I’d be mildly surprised.

In China we were on the lookout, if buying sunscreen, to avoid buying the skin-whitening varieties inadvertently. It was never a problem, but there are so, so many whitening products on sale here in Thailand— not just sunscreen. I spent longer than I should have watching Thai television, in un-subbed Thai, a few nights back and the ad segments were dominated by whitening deoderant, whitening body-wash, whitening sunscreen, and just plain old whitening cream. I’d venture they’re as common as weight loss ads in America (which are non-agents in this country).

The downpour slackened as I sloshed back to the beach, though lightning still flashed in the distance, and I saw my first firefly ever! That alone was worth the storm: a most entertaining insect.

Maenam

The coffee here is the worst, even Nescafe puts it to shame, and the only thing on T.V. is Aljazeera. But besides those two (minor) negatives, Maenam is just lovely.
The beach is a tad narrow by tourism standards, but that doesn't bother me, what's important is that it's empty, absolutely vacant.

China to Thailand

Hong Kong------

After Kunming, Hong Kong Internatial Airport feels like a space station, I'm a huge fan. The rooms are cavernous, the surfaces immaculate white, save for bright signage and adverstisments, but the ceiling-- a seemingly endless sea of wave form white and shadow-- is what stands out the most (besides the size).

After looking more closely it seems that what's really doing the trick is natural light. Expansive windows let it in at the sides, and the ceiling above the decorative waves is all slim, white lattice with emptiness abounding. Above it I see a solid roof, but it slants up and away from the center, letting in light at the eaves. With the reflective surfaces (most of them), the space feels even bigger than it is.

I'm wishing for more time in Hong Kong, and I haven't been outside the airport. Nor will I go, since my flight departs this evening. Several hours remain till then, but my exploring will be hampered by the big pack, which I can't check in. Royal Jordinian doesn't come into counter space until 7:00. Such is life.

I can't imagine enjoying Hong Kong overmuch, it is a city after all, but it looked intriguing from the plane-- so many little islands, shipyards, and ships of all manners on the waters. The city seems all near the shore, comprised of neat skyscrapers, yet behind, and even amidst it, are forested mountains. I may be back someday.

The currency here is downright fun to boot: brilliant green, purple, pink, and orange, plus odd, wave-edged coins. Sadly I'm not rich enough to keep money as a decorative item, and I just spend all my HK cash on "A Dance with Dragons."

Bangkok---

Bangkok is humid, more so even than the aftermath of a hot, hot shower. You could cut the air with a butter knife. Inside my hostel, however, it was ever cool as could be asked for.

Saphaipae Hotel was the name of the place, and I was quite pleased with the best bed I've known since the states, showers that actually showered, helpful staff, and a tasty restaurant. I checked in after midnight and had the whole dorm to myself, but was joined on the morrow by a fellow American (though a six year EU resident).

Having accidentally donated my towel to Dali I was obliged to buy a new one. So, Jeff (I'm fairly certain that was his name) and I set out to do some exploring. The first thing, besides the heavy air, that struck me were the smells. I'm somewhat accustomed to the fragrance of a Chinese city, but Bangkok is different. There's a palpable touch of peanut in the air, a fair bit of spice, a tolerable level of left-out-too-long fruit, and, of course, exhaust. The city is populous, but insanely quieter than anywhere I went in China.

We wandered to a larger department store, secured my towel, and had a bit of lunch at the food court. It was nothing special, but faster, healthier, and about six times cheaper than most American fast food. Afterwards we grabbed some ice cream, and that was slightly odd.

The ice cream was normal enough (coconut), but the toppings included dainties I wouldn't fathom on dessert. We had a choice of chocolate sprinkles, toasted peanuts, red beans, corn, two varieties of julliened, mystery fruits/vegetables (mystery because some process had been performed on them), and some weird things most like pomegranate seeds, though they were three or four times larger, and bright, artificial purple.

I saved adventure for another time and took some sprinkles.

Bangkok to Koh Samui------

Bus is not the way to travel in Thailand, not if one can avoid it. I took a sleeper from Bangkok to Suratthani for a mere 1000 Baht (ferry to Koh Samui included). I got there alright, but it took a good fifteen or so hours. A flight, on the other hand, would have done the job in about one. Our cabin, which I shared with an Italian family, was too cold for sleep, and build for midgets.

From Suratthani we took a ferry to Samui. There I left the Italians and hopped into the back of a truck to join some French girls for a ride over to Lamai beach. One of them sported a massive scab, incurred, I learned, at the famed Full Moon Party (an event I've thought of attending, but the internet tells me it isn't what it once was, and is nowadays an over-commercialized, police-infested, hive of luddites). The two of them were rather enamored of it nonetheless.

But, sadly, the internet is not infallible. It informed me I'd find Lamai to be a relatively quiet Samui beach. "Relative to what?" I wonder now. The streets are a pattern of tailors, massage parlors, bars, and hotels. At night the air trembles with the bass of inumerable dance clubs. Lamai is most clearly a vacation destination, and I don't expect to stay overlong. There must be a truly quiet beach on these islands, and I mean to find it.

The Jade Emu

Dave, who owns the Jade Emu, is ridiculously good at pool. There's a little notice on the wall here-- anyone to best him wins a free night's accommodation. Games go on all day, but he never loses. Dave takes two, or three turns in a average game to sink every ball. It's probably no coincidence that his table is the best I've seen in China.

There's a fair sized group here at the Emu. Roni, Phillipe, Jon, Idnn't Mitch, myself, and of course Dave, have spent the day or two playing pool with little interruption. As such, I haven't much news, but it passes the time admirably. Incidentally, "Idn't" is not that persons name, but his nickname. I've totally forgotten the true one if I ever knew it.

The other day I had the most awkward couple of hours. Two fellows I'd been chilling with all day invited me to dinner with their friends. I accepted, but as we collected more and more companions from the city it became apparent that they all knew each other, indeed they were all traveling together, and that they were all German. The only issue was that they spoke in German nearly all night, leaving me with less of a clue than I'd have had with Chinese.

There are so, so many Israeli people in China, and I've figured out why. It's because after the mandatory military stint they're granted a sizable lump sum and encouraged to see the world a bit. They have a huge representation among travelers, at least here. I've met one Frenchman, one Spaniard, one Italian, two Brazilians, five Canadians, only one or two Americans, several Germans, plenty of English people, and a very few northern Europeans, but at least thirty Israelis all told.

Well, bother, I felt I had a lot more to say when I sat down, but it doesn't come to much after all. Relaxing days lie ahead, till the thirteenth, then I fly to Hong Kong.