Dali, text to come soon

I managed to get ripped off again today. A weathered older man scuttled up to me on the street. He wanted to polish my shoes, for a price of course. Initially I refused, and we argued a bit, but eventually I had to admit my Birk’s were looking pretty shabby. The man would shine them for two yuan, and I figured he could use whatever little money shoe shining got him.



He led me over to an alley where he and a friend maintained their heap of business items— three tiny stools, assorted rubber bits, rags, knives, numerous tins and jars, and thread. The polishing commenced. I was pleased the shoes were sprucing up a fair bit, but I ended up paying way more than I wanted to. It began when the fellow brought to my attention a parting, in certain areas, between the leather and cork. He shook his head, sighing, as if it were a great shame. Then quickly he applied glue, and passed it to his partner who began sewing the two bits together, the full length down. This alarmed me a bit, as I hadn't request the shoes be poked full of holes. However, after the initial surprise I could see he knew what he was about, and that this probably was an improving measure. Lastly they bolstered my worn heels, and charged me 102 yuan. I was visibily annoyed. I had planned on paying more than 2 yuan, since they were clearly putting in work and deserved more than .30 cents, but having the price raised on you is a different matter from raising it yourself. Registering my expression, the man explained the cost of the several shoe-operations, all the while glossing over the fact that he’d performed them without telling me first, or asking if I would like them. Sneaky little goblin, I ended up paying what he asked so as not to cause a scene, and also because he had my shoes.



I neglected to mention I’ve left Lijaing, and am now staying just outside the old town in Dali. Some people swear to the superiority of one city over the other, but from what I’ve seen so far they’re not much different. I do prefer Dali though, mostly because there’s a lot more foliage around, but also due to ease in navigation. I suppose Dali feels more alive than Lijiang. People are going about their lives— washing dishes (in the street), making deliveries, chatting with neighbors, and cooking for their families within view. What’s more, unless they’re all paid actors, is that everyone seems to be happy. It’s more vibrant than miles of repetitive storefront.




Honestly I’m astounded at the practically miniature old town. I came here expecting it to entertain me several days at least, but I’ll probably have to look beyond the city limits. Tonight, though, I just feel like resting. Maybe the guesthouse has some books I can borrow.